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토코페롤에서 유도된 기능성 화장품용의 새로운 계면 활성제
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  • 토코페롤에서 유도된 기능성 화장품용의 새로운 계면 활성제
  • Polyoxyethylene Tocopheryl Ethers; A Series of Novel Surfactants from Tocopherol for Functional Cosmetics
저자명
김영대,김창규
간행물명
화장품화학회지
권/호정보
1992년|18권 1호|pp.1-41 (41 pages)
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대한화장품학회
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이 논문은 한국과학기술정보연구원과 논문 연계를 통해 무료로 제공되는 원문입니다.
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A new and unique class of nonionic surfactants was synthesized by reacting biological a-tocopherol with ethylene oxide for functional cosmetics. The structures were confirmed by Hl-UMR, FT-lR, TLC and elemental analysis. POV and conjugated diene value study for EPO showed POE(n)TE had antioxidative effect similar to tocopheryl acetate Protective effect on cell membrane in photohemolysis of POE(5)TE, POE(10)TE and POE(18)TE were slightly lower than tocopherol but higher than nonoxynol-12, and POE(10)TE had UV absorption power comparable with tocopherol and homosalate. Biological activity of the hydrophobic group of the new surfactants make them unique and different from those of conventional nonionic surfactants Systematic safety evaluations of POE(n)TEs on the skin and eye proved that they are as safe as tocopherol. The results of physicochemical study showed POE(10)TE had the lowest CMC value, POE(18)TE had the maximum surface tension reduction and the highest foam volume and POE(n)TEs had various HLB values by the degree of ethoxylation. The test resul Is of technological and practical applications of these surfactants for cosmetics showed some POE(n)TEs were superior to conventional surfactants. POE(5)TE in W/O emulsions, POE(10)TE and POE(12)TE in O/W emulsions, POE(12)TE in dispersions, POE(18)TE in solubilizations and POE(50)TE in gelations were shown to be excellent which was considered due to the structural characteristic and formation of liquid crystals of POE(n)TEs. By the development and applications of these excel lent multi-functional surfactants, innovative functional cosmetics were successfully formulated.