유자(Citrus junos Sieb ex TANAKA)는 북동아시아 지역에서 재배되는 감귤류 종이며, 비타민 C, 플라보이드, 리모노이드를 풍부히 함유하고 있다. 한국에서 재배되는 유자는 차나 음식료품으로 사용되고, 부산물인 씨와 과피는 전량 폐기되고 있다. 이 연구에서는 유자 부산물을 기능성 화장품 소재로서 이용 가능성을 평가하였다. 씨와 과피 에탄올 추출물에서 DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) 라디칼 소거활성 효과는 크지 않았지만 고농도의 phenolic compounds를 함유하고 있다. 각질형성세포(HaCaT Keratinocyte)와 섬유아세포(Normal Fibroblast)에 UVB를 각각 12.5 $mJ/cm^2$, 15 $mJ/cm^2$를 조사한 후 항염효과와 Collagen 합성량, Collagen 분해효소인 MMP-1 (matrix metalloproteinase)의 발현량을 확인하였다. 과피 추출물에서 UVB에 의해 증가된 TNF-$alpha$를 상당량 줄여주었다. 마찬가지로 과피 추출물은 MMP-1의 발현량을 줄여주고 Collagen의 합성량도 증가시켰다. 한편 유자 추출물의 $alpha$-MSH (Melanocyte stimulating hormone) 처리에 의해 유도된 멜라닌 생합성 억제효능과 타이로시나제 발현량 감소를 확인하였다. 결론적으로 유자 부산물의 에탄올 추출물질은 항노화, 미백 기능성 화장품 소재로 가치가 기대된다.
Yuza (Citrus junos Sieb ex TANAKA) is a citrus fruit that is cultivated in northeast Asia. Citron is known for containing abundant antioxidants such as vitamin C, flavonoids, for example hesperidin and hesperetin, and terpenoids such as limononin. When mature citron is processed for tea or other beverage food products in Korea, massive amounts of seeds and pericarp are remained as waste. This study aimed to exploit the processed remnant of Citron for developing functional cosmetic applications. Ethanol extracts of Yuza seed and pericarp did not show significant radical scavenging activities measured by DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) method. But they contained significantly high phenolic compounds. Cultured human dermal fibroblasts and HaCaT keratinocytes were irradiated with 25 mJ UVB and the citron extracts were added to the medium of each culture. Cellular damages caused by UVB irradiation were prevented by the addition of the Yuza extract. In addition, the reduction of the enhanced MMP-1 expression after irradiation of UVB in human dermal fibroblasts was observed. Also the increased level of pro-inflammtory TNF-$alpha$ in the UVB irradiated HaCaT cells was decreased. The collagen expression was enhanced by the extract. Yuza extract markedly inhibited melanin production from $alpha$-MSH treated B16F1 melanoma cells. Melanin assay, tyrosinase zymography results indicated that Yuza extract had strong depigmenting activity. In conclusion, Yuza ethanol extracts have good anti-photoaging and strong anti-melanogenic efficacies.
